Tuesday, December 08, 2015

Hakodate and Tohoku: Day 8

Back in Tokyo again!  Trying to get my room to warm up since I've been away for so long, so for the next little bit it'll be multiple layers and maybe a blanket to wrap up in while I type...

I'd decided on my plans a couple of days ago, but was still feeling uncertain about them even as I was on the way to the train station after checking out of my hotel this morning. I just wasn't sure that all of my trains and buses would get me where I needed to be.  But it turns out, I did all that worrying over nothing.  Even though I was still out in a rural area, everything was on time--right down to the minute!

My destination was a place called Ginzan-Onsen ("Silver Mountain Hot Springs"), a popular place for tourists in Yamagata and one of the only major tourist destinations in the prefecture that I'd never been to before.  Of course, I'm not the kind of person who enjoys public baths, which is the main thing to do while staying here.  I went primarily to see this picturesque little town that always pops up in tourist brochures. 



      
It's the off-season so there weren't a lot of other people walking around, which was nice, but also meant that most of the shops were closed. However, since it hasn't snowed heavily yet this year, access to the trail behind the town was open and I went for a walk.

First, there is the waterfall that feeds the canal running through the middle of the town.


The top of the falls

      
And the trail winds all the way up behind it, basically tracing the path of the stream backwards out to some lovely open spaces.





      
Until I stumbled upon this:

Beware of bears!

      
It scared the crap out of me, and I hightailed it all the way back to the town again.  I'm not sure if there really was any danger (probably not), but I was surprised that in a tourist town there was no warning of the possibility of bears until you were actually in the place where you might see them. Let's hope they were all hibernating or something.

Back in town I stopped for some of Ginzan's famous kare-pan (deep fried dough with spicy curry inside).


    
Then I did a little more browsing in the two or three other shops that were open. Yamagata is famous for a variety of fruits, and most of the souvenir shops sell cans of juices or fruit-flavored sodas. Grape, tomato, pear, peach, apple and cherry are the most common, but this town is famous for its watermelon, too.  I picked up a couple of cans to take home and enjoy later.

Advertising cans of 100% Yamagata juice.

     
By then I had about 20 minutes left to wait for the bus, so I took a leisurely walk up the hill to the bu stop. It was a beautiful day!


I think the most beautiful skies you'll see in Japan are here in Yamagata...

     
The bus ride back to the train station was quiet. I had another 40 minute wait for my next transfer, so I walked around a bit outside. I hadn't noticed when I'd arrived in the morning but outside in the afternoon I realized that the train station was designed in a shape similar to stadium bleachers--you can walk up them, all the way to the top of the station roof!  Once you're at the top, it's another beautiful view of the town.

View from the street outside the station

Bleacher-shaped Ōishida Station, with the stairs on the far left.

And the view of the town behind the station from the top of the station's roof.

Seriously.  The skies.

    
After catching one more local train, I was back at Yamagata Station and ready for a transfer to the bullet train that would take me back to Tokyo.  I had 30 minutes to pick up a gift, retrieve my belongings from a locker, grab some food to eat on the train, and buy my ticket. It was quite the rush, but I made it onto the platform just as the train was pulling into the station.

Once settled into my seat, I enjoyed my gingerbread latte and watched the scenery fly by as the sun went down.


    
Not a bad way to end a trip to my favorite part of Japan!

Monday, December 07, 2015

Hakodate and Tohoku: Day 7

Today was a full day.

I was up relatively early so I could make it to Yamadera (literally "mountain temple") which is, as you might suspect, a mountain with loads of temples and shrines.

Part of the town of Yamadera, on the way to the base of the mountain
        
My first visit was in 2009 and it was one of my first trips outside the Tokyo area. (See the post here, which includes a little more explanation of the mountain itself.) Of course, it hasn't really changed since I was there before, but I went back because I remembered how beautiful it was.

Buddhist monuments, jizō statues, and other relics line the stairs to the top
     

A view across the valley
     
          
The skies were even prettier than my last visit, and I spent quite a while at the lookout point enjoying the view.

At the lookout point. Special prize goes to this woman, for making the trek in those heels...
       







       
Made a loop past one more temple on the way back down to the base where I spotted some kitties!


Perspective is everything: Are these just peaceful zen kitties...

...or clever, hungry kitties waiting for a goldfish-y snack? (P.S. I have no idea what all that yellow string was for.)

      
On the way back to the train station I stopped to get some tama-konnyaku (balls of konjac that have been simmered in soy sauce), a Yamagata specialty.

Simmering in the pot
     
They are often served smeared with Japanese karashi hot mustard
     

One more view of the mountain from the train station platform, then on to Sendai!


      
My friend Paul is in Sendai attending grad school, and since I wasn't going to be that far away I added an extra leg to my trip so I could stop by and see him.


       
But first I had to wait until his classes were finished for the day, so of course I went browsing for Japaneesy things...

Business lotion...

     
We decided to start with a late lunch. After exploring our options we settled on ramen.  Ramen makes Paul happy.


I chose the super-special spicy ramen.  Seriously, that's how the name translates. It was oh-so-good.

      
Full--and suffering from a mild case of heartburn from all the habanero in the soup--Paul took me on a walking tour.  Though I've been here twice before, it's nice to have someone who's familiar with the city to show you around. We even stopped by his university; Paul is in the DJ club, so I got the behind-the-scenes tour of his practice room.

The literal "elephant in the room" was my personal favorite of all their interior decorating choices.

      
And then we were off for a walk through the downtown area.  Lucky us!  We were there to see the Christmas lights.



Even the lion outside the department store was dressed in his holiday best. The beard was a nice touch, don't you think?

       
And of course, there are the obligatory photos of things we like to make fun of:

A clothing store, of course
         
"For the nice tomorrow"
      
Perhaps the children's smoking section is around the corner?

        
We topped off the evening with an ice cream stop. After all those stairs I'd climbed in the morning, plus my walking tour of the city, I figured I could spare the calories.  No photo, though.  It didn't last very long...

Tomorrow is the last day of my vacation.  I've got some plans, but I'm not yet sure I can pull them off. It's hard to tour the countryside when you don't drive a car...

Anyways, stay tuned for one more post!

Sunday, December 06, 2015

Hakodate and Tohoku: Day 6

Lots of landscape-y pictures today.

It was terribly windy and rainy last night when I got to my hotel, to the extent that I was worried I'd have to cancel today's plans. (It seems the weather is not cooperating with me much this week!) In the end I did have to cancel, but not because of the weather: it was because the schedule for the Mogami River tour has different hours on Sundays, and would have left me stranded with a 3-hour wait at a tiny train station in the middle of nowhere. :)

View of one of the river's tributaries, from the window of the train
             
Oh well.  At least I got off the train and took a look around for a while.  After all, it is a beautiful middle of nowhere. And there was even some blue sky, too!

Mogami River




      
It turns out I had good timing, too. Just as I was turning back, the sky clouded over. It was grey the whole return trip to Shinjō Station, and just before we stopped, I could see tiny little snow flurries.




         
The snow didn't last for long, though it did stay mostly overcast for the rest of the day. After getting off the train, I had just over an hour before another transfer that would take me to Yamagata City.

View from the west side of Shin Station...

...and from the east.
And from somewhere between Shinjō and Yamagata City.

      
And here I am for the night! Tomorrow promises more excitement, because I'm off to visit a friend. But now it's time for dinner...